+34 613 072 092
info@spainprivateguides.com
In 2021, Dolça and I sat on the terrace of a winery in Empordà, talking about what we wanted Spain Private Guides to become. With a very good glass of wine and those beautiful views in front of us, many ideas began to take shape. That’s how wine fits into our lives: naturally, just as it is part of some of the most characterful routes in Spain.
If you want to discover Spain through its wines, there are three regions that I personally love: La Rioja, with its medieval villages contrasting with contemporary architecture; Jerez de la Frontera, where Andalusian traditions blend with its wine culture; and Catalunya, where the sea and a uniquely innovative creativity give rise to singular wines and wineries. Three styles, three landscapes, and three completely different ways of experiencing wine.
This first blog will take us to taste La Rioja, probably the most emblematic wine route in Spain.
I don’t know how many times I’ve done this route — perhaps a dozen. It’s such a beautiful and delicious region that I would visit it a thousand times more.
La Rioja is known for its internationally renowned wines and for iconic architectural works by world-famous architects — but that’s not all. The roads are narrow and wind through vineyards, perfectly preserved medieval villages, and mountains that frame the horizon. The ochre color is always present — in the stone, the mountains, and the dry earth — giving the vineyards a powerful presence. Don’t miss the opportunity to sit at a viewpoint and simply enjoy the view.
There are many accommodation options, but there are three places I particularly love. These are my first choices for a 3 day itinerary in La Rioja:
I have a special affection for this winery hotel, where I’ve stayed many times and, on more than one occasion, shared a glass of wine with one of its founders.
The hotel views are dreamy. It’s small, intimate, and everything smells of oak barrels. You eat and drink like royalty here (be sure to book in advance, as they have limited capacity). You can tour the winery and walk through the vineyards.
If you’re looking for a unique place to stay, this medieval village offers several small three-star hotels where you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into a fairytale. The town comes alive in the late afternoon, filling with that special energy born from good food and even better wine.
I stayed here once and loved it. Haro feels more urban, with more movement and liveliness. I recommend Hotel Los Agustinos, an impressive former 15th-century convent. Today it’s a four-star hotel (part of the Eurostars chain) and truly wonderful.
You can’t visit La Rioja without enjoying some wine. So unless you’re travelling with a friend who prefers not to drink, the easiest option is to hire a private driver to take you between wineries.
If you do have someone in the group who doesn’t drink alcohol, renting a car works perfectly well — just make sure to thank your designated driver with a very nice gift afterward.
Driving through this area is a pleasure. Quiet, narrow roads, beautiful views, and dozens of medieval villages crowned with church towers. You could easily spend the entire day stopping in each one — but there are a few places you simply can’t miss.
We’ll start by visiting the Monasteries of San Millán de Yuso and Suso, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in the village of San Millán de la Cogolla.
Their origin lies in the tomb of Saint Millán from the 11th century, around which a Benedictine abbey was later built, and whose church still stands today. The monastery houses the sarcophagi of the Seven Princes of Lara, the tombs of the Queens of Pamplona, and the Portalejo carpet — a Mozarabic-style floor from the early 11th century.
This monastery is considered the birthplace of both the Spanish and Basque languages, as the Glosas Emilianenses — the earliest written documents containing both languages — were found here. Copies can be seen in the Codices and Choir Books Room at the Monastery of Yuso.
Take your time visiting the church, the cloister, the 11th-century Romanesque ivories, and the library, considered one of the finest in monastic Spain.
Our day continues in the small village of Ezcaray, definitely one of the prettiest in the region. Its traditional stone houses with wooden frameworks, arcades, and flower-filled balconies are truly charming.
Ezcaray is a great place to stop for lunch. But if you’re not hungry yet, just 15 minutes away is another beautiful village: Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
Located along the Oja River, this town is a stop for pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago. Its founder built a bridge to cross the river, as well as a pilgrim hostel and hospital, around which the town grew from the 12th century onward. Today it remains one of the most interesting towns in the region.
After lunch, we’ll visit one of the most emblematic wineries: Marqués de Riscal. An absolute icon thanks to the hotel designed by Frank Gehry — a titanium building that looks like a sculpture rising among the vineyards.
Located in the medieval village of Elciego, the contrast between ancient stone and Gehry’s bold contemporary colors is exquisite. The tour of the winery is very engaging and ends with a tasting of three wines.
After so much exploring — and wine — I recommend returning to your accommodation to relax. Whether you’re staying in Haro, Laguardia, or at Bodega Eguren Ugarte, it’s time to enjoy the setting, an aperitif, and then a wonderful dinner.
Today you’ll taste my favourite Rioja wine at the winery I love most: Bodegas Baigorri. Designed by local architect Iñaki Aspiazu, the entire building is oriented around gravity-fed winemaking. The technology, combined with the architectural design, makes it function like a giant machine: the process begins when the grapes arrive, and as they descend floor by floor, they gradually transform into great wine… you really have to see it to understand it — it’s hard to explain.
During the visit, you’ll follow the entire process and finish surrounded by barrels, eager to taste the wines. I recommend having lunch there (reservations are essential). The views are beautiful, the food is fantastic, and their velvety wines are outstanding.
After enjoying a slow-food meal accompanied by some of the best wines in the region, it’s time to return to the hotel for a siesta. It doesn’t need to be long — but trust me, you’ll need it.
In the afternoon, explore the village where you’re staying.
Laguardia is one of the most beautiful towns in Rioja Alavesa. Its cobbled streets, medieval walls, and underground cellars (where wine was traditionally made) make it truly unique. The vineyard views from here are spectacular, especially at sunset.
Shops open at 5:00 pm and the town comes to life: bars, restaurants, wine shops… and more wine. Visit the Church of Santa María de los Reyes and explore its street art. There’s a sculpture I love called “Travellers,” featuring various bags, boots, and shoes.
If you’re staying at Bodega Eguren Ugarte, you’ll be just a few kilometers from Laguardia.
Haro is tradition in its purest form and the historic capital of Rioja wine. In the Barrio de la Estación you’ll find some of the country’s most emblematic wineries, many founded in the 19th century.
Its old quarter is officially protected as a historic ensemble, filled with manor houses, palaces, Renaissance and even Baroque buildings that speak of its prosperous past. Spend the afternoon strolling through Plaza de la Paz, visiting the Palace of Bendaña, the Church of Santo Tomás, and the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Vega.
When you feel hungry, it’s time for patatas a la riojana or grilled lamb chops cooked over vine shoots, paired with a good Reserva.
You’ve already visited a world-famous winery like Marqués de Riscal. You’ve visited Baigorri, a mid-sized winery of the highest quality. Today it’s time for a small, lesser-known family winery that will transport you to the past.
Since some of you will be staying in Haro and others in Laguardia, I’ll give both options.
In Haro, wine is experienced with solemnity: long barrel aging, tastings in century-old rooms, and the elegant character of Tempranillo that has brought Rioja worldwide fame. Despite its size, Haro remains one of Spain’s most important wine capitals. Its Barrio de la Estación, with the highest concentration of century-old wineries in the world, is an enological and heritage treasure that attracts thousands of visitors each year.
Just steps from one another are historic wineries that were part of the origin of the Rioja Qualified Designation of Origin, such as Muga, CVNE, La Rioja Alta S.A., Gómez Cruzado, Roda, Bodegas Bilbaínas, and López de Heredia — many still family-owned and most open to visitors.
In Laguardia, there is a very unique winery beneath the Palace of the Samaniegos: El Fabulista. Located seven meters underground in the town’s caves, it is small, family-run, and right in the historic center. It’s one of the most spectacular underground wineries in Laguardia and one of the few that still produces wine in a traditional, artisanal way.
Enjoy a relaxed and delicious lunch before heading into the nature of La Rioja. There are several options, but here are my two favorites.
The Cueva de los Cien Pilares is located in the middle valley of the Cidacos River, in Arnedo. This extensive cave complex was excavated beneath Cerro de San Miguel by locals, initially used as a cemetery or as shelter during medieval attacks. Later it served as housing, stables, wineries, and religious centers. During the visit through these reddish clay mountains full of openings, you’ll reach the famous Cueva de los Cien Pilares — the jewel of Arnedo.
Another option is one of the fantastic hiking routes in the Sierra de Cebollera Natural Park. It offers walks among peaks over 2,000 meters high, extensive pine forests, waterfalls, and diverse wildlife. One of the most popular routes is the Cascadas del Puente Ra trail, which starts at the Ermita de Lomos de Orio and follows a circular seven-kilometer path along a stream.
Other interesting trails include the Villoslada de Cameros Trail (1.5 km), Senda de la Blanca (1 km), Sendero del Achichuelo (9.5 km), and the Laguna de Cebollera route (14 km).
After fresh air and exercise, it’s time for a farewell dinner. And what better way to end than choosing one of the region’s Michelin-starred or Michelin-recommended restaurants?
My recommendation for the perfect finale is Echaurren Tradición, where you’ll taste the wonderful traditional cuisine of La Rioja.
